At least so far. The first go round had the nozzle crash into the tree support, resulting in a layer shift. The good news is that the print stayed very firmly stuck to the bed.
I’ve reset, lowered my extrusion multiplier a smidge, switched to a more traditional support pattern, and am going for it again. Wish me luck!
What’s your chamber temp with bed fans like? I just mounted a chamber thermistor (on the floor, I don’t feel like running cables through the drag chain right now) that I need to connect but the little thermometer module on my gantry was reading like 58 ish at 100 c bed temp, dropped to 56 ish overnight, was getting 40s before moving them to the front and actually setting up the automation macro for them.
For impromptu insulation, Cardboard works well too, I stick my filament dryer in a box during the winter so it can actually hit the target temps, otherwise it runs forever.
I struggled to hit 60 °C after an hour and a half of heat soak using the filter and two extra bedfans on full blast. This was measured from the toolhead over the center of bed and the nozzle 75mm off the bed. Without the insulation I was in the low 40s.
I don’t have enough cardboard to make a cardboard sleeve, but I do have ACM panels I’ve been meaning to install, along with some of that foil bubble radiant insulation.
I have ACM on mine, definitely recommend, did need to print thicker panel mounts for them though. Those definitely sound like some decent chamber temps, I’ve had decent enough results in the 40s, I’d be interested to see where ACM + bubble insulation goes.
I’ve had a number of bigger prints warp with just acrylic panels :( now that I’ve finally figured out how to consistently nail my first layer the last print lifted the build plate. I was impressed, lol.
I need to figure out what I’m going to do for my door. Thinking about going clicky-clack so I can still eyeball the first layer out of habit.
I have 2 doors with the 270 deg hinges with latches, but I’m honestly super interested in something like the clicky-clack for sealing, theres a slight gap between mine and I’ve not got around to making something to fill it without getting in the way. I have little tiny windows on mine
(excuse the loose cable, hadn’t printed slot covers for the lights yet, just put the covers on today) you can kinda sorta see what’s going on but Yeah, definitely relying on known good profiles and stores offsets for each of my surfaces. Tap kinda sorta makes swapping nozzles less of an issue but I still like having different offsets, textured is a bit closer and nylon is just a bit further away.
Super impressive it stayed adhered honestly, I had that happen with buildtak but not with a standard pei surface.
No adhesion helpers either, I was pretty pleased! This macro seems a bit daunting to set up and get running, but it should solve most of your challenges: https://github.com/protoloft/klipper_z_calibration
I’ll look at it for sure thanks! I think I was going to try it a while back but never got around to it as I figured the tap probe would handle it, found it most important to keep the nozzle clean (shocking I know considering it’s my z probe!), I had a cleaning macro before I installed the kinematic bed, might set that up again when I get around to it, need to make some height adjustments to the models as the bed itself sits higher than stock.