Currently using a FLSUN Super racer. It’s a delta style printer and fast as hell compared to the printers I had before. 400 hours on it currently.
Had a Ender 3 before it. Lots of issues. Ended up giving it away to a friend who still uses it and still has random issues.
First printer was a Printrbot Simple Metal. Bought one the moment a heated bed was a option. Great printer for the time, but dated now. Keep thinking about resurrecting it to print flexibles on of these days.
Prusa mini+. It wasn’t the cheapest and isn’t the fastest or most expensive but it’s crazy reliable and is just always there and ready when I need it.
I fell for the marketing, paid reviews and fake review sites so I ended up with an Ender 3 v2. Spent a lot of time trying to level and calibrate it but never managed to get rid of the gantry sag entirely. Eventually discovered that the x axis tensioner didn’t quite fit on the aluminium extrusion and had been bent from overtightening at the factory, which was causing the belt to wander, but it was pretty easy to fix by jamming a thin metal spacer in there after I found it. Have spent a bit over €350 on upgrading the printer to get it to a state where I’m (mostly) happy with it.
Was hoping to build an Annex K2 some time, but the component costs have gone up so it’s even more expensive now…
That’s what I started on (well, a knock off clone) and I still say it’s a great printer if you want to learn 3D printing.
Now, if you want to actually print right after buying, no no no. Not a good fit.
It’s basically a set of parts that can be cheaply replaced, but measured properly (mostly) and lets you avoid putting together a BOM. Plus, there are tons of them out there, so lots of community support and many cheap, occasionally working, 3rd party upgrades.
I feel like it taught me the mindset of FDM troubleshooting and how the parts/variables interacted with each other. It was $150 a few years ago, so it’s great for screwing up and figuring out what you want in your first real printer. It also has a lot of potential and folks that have modded them to actually run well, so it helped me figure out where I fell on the “It just works” to “Let’s test these 200 different hotend fan duct designs” spectrum and which features were most important to me.
Since lemmy is bugged and won’t let me reply to @DrNeurohax@kbin.social’s comment, here’s what I tried to write:
Buying a simple printer with lots of modding options can indeed be a good way learning, but there are a few reasons why I don’t recommend Creality: They appear to have done some serious cost cutting after their initial success where they established themselves as the makers of the best printers for beginners. Primarily this is noticeable on their (lack of) quality control, and there’s a too big risk that you get a unit with manufacturing or assembly flaws. An experienced user might be able to quickly diagnose and fix these errors most of the time, but it’s very difficult for a first timer, who is more likely to assume they’re doing something wrong and keep bashing their head against the wall.
The second issue is just lack of value for money. Creality can put their prices higher and people will still buy Enders because of their reputation and marketing. The Ender 3 v2 barely had any meaningful improvements over the first Ender, and was definitely not worth an extra $100. I used to say that Creality has fallen way behind the competition (i.e. compared to other cheap Chinese printers) but IMO their Sprite extruder is decent, and they also put dual Z on the Ender 3 S1. I would even go so far as to say the E3S1 is a good albeit overpriced printer, assuming you get lucky with quality control. And if you can get an Ender 3 Pro for $99 when Microcenter runs that campaign that’s a very good price for a bare-bones printer.
The important thing to keep in mind is to never have any brand loyalty when it comes to cheap Chinese printers. Most companies have made a few ok, or even good, printers but also sell several bad models.
And to clarify, I didn’t meant DIY would be an alternative to Creality for a first printer, rather that there are other cheap Chinese printers that offer better value for money and slightly lower risk of getting a flawed from factory printer, for example one could get an Anycubic Kobra Go instead of an Ender 3 v2. Currently Sovol SV06 looks like the over all best choice for budget printer, but that can change at any time. A few years ago Artillery Genius was considered a relatively good starter printer, but then they replaced it with Genius Pro which is more expensive and in some ways arguably a downgrade from the previous model.
its an ender 3 in the same way that a dune buggy is a vw beetle. the only stock bits that remain are the frame and some of the steppers. it’s gone direct drive, all metal, glass bed, klipper firmware on a btt mini e3v2 all running off of a mac mini with octoprint.
ender 5 pro mostly stock with bltouch and cardboard bolted to the side as side panels. im saving up for a p1p currently. while i like the idea of the machine im done with creality. if im using the official firmware from their website i shouldnt have to rewire my stepper motor to extrude correctly. its small things like that i cant trust them with. sure there might be issues with bambulabs in the future but the base machine is still a good starting point. hopefully i can go full print farm and then have it as a side job.
Voron 0.2 - down for upgrade from 0.1 to 0.2
Voron Switchwire w/ ERCF
Voron Trident - down because one of the CANBUS boards died
Voron 2.4r2
Voron crew! Granted, you’re much further along than I am. Currently working on wiring my first Voron - a 2.2r2. Before that I’ve had a monoprice maker select plus (a rebranded wanhao) for > 5 years.
Is there a dedicated voron space in the fediverse?
MK3s+ and a heavily modified KP3S Klipper WIP.
I run an ender 3 pro with a sprite extruder, silent board, and gulfcoast robotics bed and gantry. The only one of those that was really necessary was the gulfcoast robotics one cause the 3 point leveling solved a lot of my leveling issues.
Flexible couplers for the z rod was also a great little quality of life upgrade.
Ratrig v-core 3.1 that I’ve heavily modified from “stock” configuration and still tinkering. Thinking of picking up a vzbot 235 kit to replace my old ultimaker 2+ at some point. I like the ultimaker, but it is pretty dated by todays standards.
Ender 6 but swapped out most hardware and running Klipper.
- 7 inch capacitive touch screen
- BTT Manta E3EZ + CB1
- EZ2209 drivers
- Micro Swiss NG direct
- Magnetic PEI bed
Prusa Mk3S+ with something like 1600 hours and a new orange pi octoprint server.
Next year I may get a MK4 or a X1 Carbon
I use a Prusa MK3 (not MK3S/+) that I got in 2018. Later this year I hope to get an MK4 to join it, and maybe a Voron 2.4 for big prints. My first printer was a SeeMeCNC Rostock MAX from 2013. Its controller board died for the second time just before I got the MK3, and I never fixed it.
A heavily customized Ender 5 Pro. I’m running Klipper with an Octoprint server on a Raspberry Pi. I have the BL touch, Micro Swiss direct drive kit, a custom printed heat shrowd and a 20mm fan, silicone spacers, and a spring steel bed. It prints amazingly well and I don’t see myself replacing it any time soon.
A Voron 0.1 with a 0.2 gantry and a Voron 2.4 with a 2.4r2 gantry (currently being upgraded to canbus and stealthburner).
Voron 2.4 300mm
Upgraded to Voron TAP with the stealthburner. Amazing prints!!
Ender 5, currently adapting an E3D toolchanging system to run on that printer.
Really good piece of kit once you replaced the mainboard, extruder, hotend and beefed up the bed mount to not wobble multiple mm up and down while printing.
Would not recommend for anyone who just wants to print.
