It seems like ring finger paddle buttons are becoming a controller staple. I know of these, what are some others?
Clone an existing button only:
- 8BitDo Pro 2 (P1, P2)
- PS4/PS5 controller with remap kit from ExtremeRate (K1, K2, K3, K4)
Treated by Steam as an entirely new button:
- Steam Controller (L4, R4)
- Paired joy-cons (left SL, SR; right SL, SR)
- Steam Deck (L4, L5, R4, R5)
- Xbox Elite (P1, P2, P3, P4)
- Dualsense Edge (LB, RB)
I use a modded PS5 controller on PC. I’ve found for most purposes, clone-binding R4 to Cross/A and L4 to Square/X is good enough, as that allows me to crouch and jump while also running and turning with the thumbsticks. But it’d be really cool if I could remap these buttons steam-side, instead of needing to clone an existing button controller-side.
Back paddles really need to become standard on all pads. Between my Steam Deck and Elite Controller for the Xbox, I’ve become quite dependent on them.
I’m sure it sounds stupid but I’ve been playing less and less switch games because of this. If a game is on both switch & pc (mh rise, indies), in the past I’d usually go with switch because of the portability, but now with a steam deck or ROG ally I go with pc because portability + back paddles. The switch has those hori joycon with back paddles but unless they’ve changed something since they first came out, those back paddles could only be programmed to buttons that are on their respective halves of the joycon (left joycon back paddle cannot be mapped to right joycon face buttons) which is useless to me.
But yeah now whenever I use a gamepad without back paddles it feels restrictive, like I’m missing fingers or a limb.
It totally sounds stupid but somehow I’m guilty of it too. I’ve even rebought games on Steam that I have on Switch because of that and the fact that I know my Steam games will be future proof for new hardware
I understand the thought, but do you have plans to get rid of the switch?
Not really. I still prefer to play my Switch games on Switch over emulating them on my Steam Deck
Unfortunately, patent trolling means they won’t become mainstream. Companies have to pay to add paddles, so they won’t unless it’s part of a more expensive controller offering.
That’s ridiculous that you can own a patent on something as basic as “buttons on the opposite side than normal”.
I think a company sued valve over it hence why they abruptly put them all on sale for 5$ and never made any more. I believe valve ended up winning the lawsuit though hence bumpers on the steam deck
Completely agree. It’s almost become default for me to remap the bumpers to the top back on my Steam Deck.
Yeah, that’s been my primary use, remapping the bumpers to the paddles, so much more comfortable to not have to move your fingers from the triggers.
The Razer Wolverine is by far the best controller I’ve ever purchased. Got it now… 7 years ago and it’s still just an absolute champ. The initial price may scare off some, and the fact that it’s wired, but it’s the best damn controller I’ve ever used.
Flappers are 2 can be mapped to existing buttons (I have mine as up/down on the D-pad), and the other 2 raise/lower sensitivity of the sticks. So I can hold a flapper while sniping to get real precise.
It also has two little toggles on the inside between the bumpers which I have mapped to left/right on the dpad, which is really nice because I don’t have to take my fingers off the sticks, Witcher 3 this is amazing because what’s how you pull out a specific sword.
Cannot recommend more, Razer Wolverine.
The Xbox Elite V2 was one of the worst purchases I ever made. Left stick drift and a sticky LB about 60 days after purchase, when the warranty was for only 30 days. They just recently started selling replacement parts but I feel it’s too little, too late.
I used to get drift on EVERY Xbox controller in less than a year. The kids got older and started dropping them on the floor less, and lo and behold, my controllers last years without any drift. 🤷🏻♂️
I kept mine in the case when not in use 😪 I have original ps2/3 controllers that still hold center. The sticks feel terrible, but they work.
Where as I brought one Amazon open box returns for half price and it didn’t develop any drift until three years down the line which is understandable giving how many hours a day I play. Seems either I got lucky or you unlucky.
There were enough reviews warning me that this was a possibility, but I usually get lucky on these kind of things. Plus I liked the feel/design. I still use the elite as my main gamepad, but I find myself using kb+m more often on games where I prefer a gamepad. I really want to get something else, but can’t justify buying another premium controller right now. This thread has shown me some options that I wasn’t aware of. And for sure I will be double checking the warranty next time!
Same issue, at one point I had two of and cycling warranty replacements on both (they bumped it up to 1 year).
I recently got the white version which doesn’t come with the additional accessories (I had a ton already from all the warranty replacements). It’s been holding up a lot better than my older black Elite 2s.
Tons of third party controllers for any system clone existing buttons, which is nice when the official controllers don’t have that. Something interesting about doing this on a switch is that because each joy con is its own independent controller you can only map each joy con to an input from the same joy con, for example, the left wouldn’t be able to map to face buttons, and the right wouldn’t be able to map to the d pad.
I use a Steam Controller on PC and really enjoy being able to map anything to it which helps being able to play games how I want. Cloning buttons is great for the whole “retain joystick movement while hitting a face button”, but without being able to directly map different game controls to it it’s just a copy of an existing function you already have.
I would love for grip buttons to be normalized and allow for more controls in games, it’s pretty much the last part of my hands that aren’t doing anything on a modern controller layout.
Extremerate rate are nice, but the strikepack is better. Can’t wait they make one for the Dualsense.
The GameSir T4k has them but I think they can only be mapped to existing buttons. I map them to left/right stick press.
Very nice affordable controller with hall effect analog sticks.I remember having a tough time choosing between the Wolverine v2 and the Victrix Gambit a while back when I needed a controller. I eventually went with the Gambit and I haven’t regretted it. It has two swappable paddle pieces so you can choose between having either two paddles or four.
I use the 8bitdo
In theory, having a whole new button would be nice. But understand that games are specifically designed around the 18+1 button setup and there is rarely a need for a 19th and a 20th. And if I am going full steam craziness: I tend to prefer modal mappings at that point anyway.
I could see something like a flight sim or an elite game benefiting from ALL THE BUTTONS but… at that point I want the HOTAS form factor. Or we are talking something like the x series where everyone knows the game is meant to be m+kb but we still try to make it work.
That said, I have my 8bitdo grips rebound to be stick buttons, and I have the stick buttons removed.
Even if I don’t get more options, I still get better options.
I have a SCUF Reflex FPS for the games that don’t need the adaptive trigger feature, and the regular one for the ones that do. They are expensive af, but I have joint hypermobility and the FPS version is the one that my hands hurt the least with, and it’s the one I most heavily use. The paddle shape and position fits my hand and it’s super lightweight.
SCUF has a reputation for poor quality control, but my FPS lived through the poorest treatment for a year, until the left trigger finally died. They don’t have a large warranty, but they repaired my controller without coverage for ~50€, and threw in a case (it’s included now, but wasn’t when I bought it) and thumbstick replacements when they sent it back.
